🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, situated near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.